When women want to prove something to their male counterpieces - most of the time, it´s pretty inconvenient for the Lords of the creation. Allowedly, “What has to be proved to the man” sounds little bit like revolution, women´s libber stuff and fighting chickenbitches.
So, it feels very pleasant that the three ladies from Quod Erat Demonstrandum pour Homme, short: QED POUR HOMME, neither come up with wagging fingers nor with a new journal for female revolutionizers.
Julia Böge, Simona Gabrieli and Jasmin Moallim - the heads behind the Berlin-based label - rely on good clothing for great guys. Abstaining from big falderal, but focusing on clear shapes and a color palette that consists of non-colors such as white and black and some grey-tones the felicitous insertion of minimalistic-playful details is the only element of agitation in their collections.
For the QED POUR HOMME winter collection the trio was inspired by Kinetics. With pieces that invite to interact by giving the opportunity to make some fast and easy changes, contrasting square-edged shapes combined with round ones, through layering, cuttling and the play with volumes and patterns QED POUR HOMME proves that for completing the chain of evidence you don´t have to reinvent the wheel, that reduction can be a powerful element of creation and that men are sometimes well advised to listen to their female counterpieces.
Mwau…contemplating J.W. Anderson´s autumn/winter collection at first I almost felt confronted with a crossing-creation of forest trolls with an alpine folk music marching band. But of course, I was wrong! Not a single designer collection in the world would ever be based on such primitive sources of inspiration.
It´s Russia, the tsars and the communism that correlate with J.W. Anderson´s collection. Not to forget the mystical figure Grigori Rasputin. Combined with World War l and Egg-Maker Peter Carl Fabergé - for me, the collection description starts to become kind of overloaded. Not implausible, not disagreeable - just too much for me. So, I try to make it short: The bandwidth of Anderson´s collection goes from artsy-experimental to absolutely ready-to-wear. High-quality work, craftsmanship and the stitching of luxury materials are closely connected to the elaborated, detailed designs. Jewelry is sized, prominent and distinctive and underlines the theatrical character of Anderson´s creations.
With his second collection the 25-years old Irish-born designer slingshots himself into the front row of the most aspiring European young-designers and proves, that creativity and craftsmanship are not always a matter of age.
“This collection is based on a guy named Storm. Showing the connection between weather and emotion, he symbolizes the more poetic side of it. When a raincloud bursts into tears and thunder into anger, Storm shows that he is only human.” - Corné Gabriëls
Sibling bangs - barely two months old, the new bold and in-your-face men’s knitwear label leads the way. With luxurious materials, eye-catching designs and prices that make me dizzy, the three east-end designers Sid Bryan, Cozette McCreery and Joe Bates give knitwear for men a kick up the arse and subvert the classic knitwear styles in a playful and progressive way. With (for example) sequined Breton twinsets, beaded Leopard twinsets, a hand-embroidered Carousel pony head sweater the Sibling designs are totally avant-garde without producing a painful exerted impression.
Honor to whom honor is due - Sibling wow´s me away for today and I strongly recommend the interview with Bryan, McCreery and Bates, Hint Magazine published here.
Today, David Dooley, surprises me with this special and unique shoes he designed and manufactured by hand for his RCA MA final collection. I found the photo on his Coroflot profile and it seems like the talented young designer is looking for a job. So, it can´t be wrong to spread the word. He´s one of the great.
Dusty is a menswear label from Finland created by designer Marjut Uotila. Dusty mixes minimal Scandinavian design with more traditional menswear aesthetics and art-oriented slant to create wearable signature pieces, inspired by Finnish folktales, heroes and legends. The woven shirt is my weekly darlin´ - it reminds me of the great and famous Artysm luxury streetwear collection, but fortunately isn´t a poor copy, but rather a succesful advancement of woven styles in sophisticated and smart menswear collections.
Unfortunately for men only: the spray effect painted lace up shoes from the Alexander Mcqueen SS08 collection. The style is a solid lace up, while the finish is a very unique and interesting spray paint finish. Available from oki-ni.com this season in a strong yellow and a loose black colourway this is a very distinctive shoe. I love them, hope you do too.
Check also out Jaime Hayon´s Camper models here.